It’s the mooring meeting this coming Wednesday which wouldn’t/shouldn’t sound that exciting to most however this year I should be allocated my permanent mooring at the club for Sundance. Also it gives me an opportunity to get some more jobs done on Sundance.
Now I’ll quickly run you through the moorings at NUSC, they all dry as you can imagine with the tidal range of the Bristol Channel, you have the river moorings and the pill which is a little offshoot of the river. The river moorings which are fore and aft and normally the bilge keelers have these as the river mud isn’t as soft as the pill. The fins go in the pill as it’s very deep soft mud that they sit into when the tide goes out. There are a few spots on the river fins can sit in but they tend to sit at an angle and a bit more exposed.
Last year I was on a temporary mooring as it was my first full year at the club (having joined 6 months before but the boat was already out of the water). This year I’ll be allocated a mooring of my own but it’s all done on seniority so naturally I’ll be starting at the bottom of the ladder. I’m just hoping I’ll get a pill mooring and not a river one, two reasons, firstly I live 100 miles away from the boat so I’m not down every couple of days to check on the boat, secondly a river mooring will probably be quite a distance from the club (bottom of the ladder remember) but having little man would mean either a long row out to the boat with him or leaving him ashore whilst I motor the boat up to the pontoon. Whatever happens I’ll be grateful of a mooring for Sundance so we’ll see!
Right onto other things… I failed on drawing the cutlass bearing into the P bracket last time and thought I would have to ask a club member with the right tool to help me install it (or at least let me borrow his tool). I don’t really like having to borrow things as I don’t like putting people out and I’m not so keen on owing people a “favour” although I’m very happy to help people out if they need it. I knew I had some 25mm box from the Inferno BBQ build, the shaft is 25mm so I had an idea, I could make my own tool for all of £5. I’m hoping it works, I can’t see why not but gain we’ll find out Wednesday!
The shaft seals I mentioned last time I still need to remove some of the poured resin around the prop tube but I had a thought of why the old rubber may have leaked and sikaflexed into place! It’s the wrong size… now I can’t blame the previous owner, he probably made the same mistake as me and just measured the old tube and ordered that size. When I was fitting the seal holder I thought it had gone in a bit easily but I thought maybe the rubber was sized for the prop tube and the seal holder was slightly smaller. When I tried to fit it last time I was down the rubber seemed loose on the tube as well so I measured it with my veneer. Yup, the tube and seal holder was about 3mm smaller then the rubber so another phone call to T Norris to get 1″ 5/8 instead of the 1 3/4 stuff I had ordered a few weeks before. A silly mistake when 4″ of rubber tube costs £30!
I’ve been making a lot of simple wooden things out of Iroko to replace the rotten bits on the boat. These include the wood the spray hood attaches to, the traveller, stern light pad, locker hinge pads and I even made an outboard bracket to hand my little dinghy outboard from the pushpit. It’s all done now I just have to “finish” them with Deks Olje D1+ D2 after a quick test fit on the boat. Oh and I managed to pick up the 2002 Mariner 3.3 from a chap up in the Lake District in bits as it has seized after being stood in his garage for a long time. I already have a older 2.2 that I thought I could swap the powerhead over as the 3.3 has neutral and reverse and it might work but there are a few little differences. I’ve managed to free the conrod but the mains are shot, I know the right thing to do is to replace the conrod but I think I’ll build it and see how it goes.
Anyways, I’ll let you know how I get on Wednesday!